Had some time this weekend and a desire to build something new and interesting. So, went ahead and created this masterpiece using some free pallet wood. 3D Design Before getting our hands dirty with sawdust, lets design the 3D version of this project to get all the measurements correct. All my flat-pallet-planks are 9.5cm wide. Since my plan is to put 6 x pallet planks side by side to create the roof, I need 2 x 60cm long wooden planks to hold these 6 x pallet planks on them. The top of these base planks will be cut at 30° angle. These two base planks will be placed 13cm apart from each other. I will create 2 of these to create the roof of this project. Next, I will add some support in the middle of these to hold them nice and tight next to each other. The legs will be 10cm long and will stick to the roof's base planks at 30° angle. The top of all back-planks will be cut at 30° angle. For the base I will cut 3 x (9.5cm x 58cm) pallet planks. The entire setup will sit on these three pallet planks. Aright, enough of talking, let start cutting the planks. Sanding After dismantling the pallet I extracted all the nails from the pallet planks. My aim is to reuse all the nails used in building this pallet so that, I can use them in building my project. After that, I sanded the pallet planks to give them a nice and smooth texture. Assembling The Top To cut the 30° angle I am using a jig of 30° one side and 45° on the other side. I adjusted the miter saw to 15° angle and then placed the pallet plank next to the 45° side of the jig and then drop the saw. Next, I extracted the 13cm planks that will separate the two 60cm planks. After that, it was time for me to apply some wood glue and join all the planks to create the base of the roof. Since the clamps I have are not wide enough to hold these cutouts, I used some pavers to hold the planks together. Once the setup dried up, I add the 6 x flat-pallet-planks on top of the base planks. I also added few nails to hold the planks firmly against the base. Then, using wood glue I joined the two sides of the roof and left it for drying overnight. Adding Supports To The Top I started a bit early next morning as I was super excited to finish this project and install the "The Holy Family of Jesus Mary and Joseph" next to my Christmas Tree. After making sure that the setup is all dry, I added the inner support to hold the two sides of the roof nice and tight to each other. Adding The Legs As per the 3D model, my setup has 4 x 10cm long legs attached to the roof's base planks at a 30° angle. Using the previously shown jig, I am cutting the 30° angle from the planks. Then using wood glue I attached the 4 legs to the base of the roof. It totally depends on , whether you want to have these legs or not. If you want, you can cut the bottom of the base plank to 45° angle and then glue the roof straight to the base plate. Creating The Back As discussed earlier, the 'top' of all the back-pallet-planks are going to have a 30° angle. So, I went ahead and used my jig to cut the 30° angle from all the pallet plank cutouts. After extracting all the 6 planks I glued them to the back of the hut. After making sure that the planks are firm enough, I left them overnight for drying without any intervention. Getting The Base Sorted The base was the easiest one to extract. Using a tape measure, I measured 3 x 58cm blocks and then went ahead and dropped the saw. Then using wood glue, I joined the 3 blocks and placed a paver on it and left it for drying. After almost 3hrs of drying, I glued the top section to the base plate. Well, that's all from the woodworking side, now its time to PAINT the masterpiece. Coloring Now to create the figurines, I googled "Baby Jesus Silhouette" and picked up the easiest one from the list. Then I carved them all using Amazon cardboard boxes. Next, with the help of my little monster, we painted the masterpiece. Activities like this excites the young ones and keeps them busy. It also helps in their brain development and increases their love towards creativity. It was a fun project for us, hope you guys like it. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year... Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Video: Video Link Full Blog Post: Blog Post 3D Design: Download GitHub: Visit Support My Work: BTC: 15cNh9hup8jidCVPwa1DTcxeoh2FPijVrX LTC: LbquH9Ku78vHtcm3LZnWXpD1JQWdKzeV4v DOGE: DEB2QBAihnBRhGsaB8P7kz559TDiucQhX6 ETH: 0x5d8c9ba0e54d8354d4af81871db26daa190d2194 BAT: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0x5d8c9ba0e54d8354d4af81871db26daa190d2194 Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial.

In my last tutorial I created a Weather Station using Arduino and NodeMCU using DHT11 or DHT22 temperature and humidity sensor and displayed it using an OLED Display. In this tutorial, I am going create a Peg-Box using the same board but with a little bit of twist. In this setup, I am going to send the Temperature and Humidity readings to my Raspberry Pi based home server and store it in a MySQL database. The data can then be viewed using PHP and Google Charts, on a Mobile Phone or a PC connected to the home network. 3D Design Lets look at the design of the peg-box. Using freely available pallet planks, I designed the body of the box. The pallet planks I am using are 160cm x 9cm x 2cm (length, width and thickness). So, the rest of the measurements will be based on that. The top bit of the peg-box will house the microcontroller and the sensors in it. Putting it on the top prevents the electronics from adverse climatic conditions. The back bit will stick to wall and hence we don't need to cover it up. You can either put the pegs straight in the front bin or throw it to the top bit, from where it will slide down to the front bin. The sliding design with an opening in the front will prevent rainwater from accumulating inside the bin. This mechanism will keep the bin dry throughout the year. Woodworking Using 2 hammers I am dismantling the pallet. My aim is to reuse all the nails used in building this pallet so that, I can use them in building my project. After that, I sanded the pallet planks to give them a nice and smooth texture. Then using a chop-saw or a hand-saw I extracted all the pieces of wood required for building this project. As mentioned earlier, my pallet plank are 9cm wide and hence, all the onscreen measurements are based on that. Final Assembly Using wood-glue I am joining all pallet planks used in making the box. I got a bit too excited and accidentally deleted one of my recordings. So, I am using 3D animation to show you guys how I joined the two sides of the box. I used a plywood board to created the base of the bin. I glued few cylindrical wooden sticks on the roof of the box. To be very frank these sticks changed the entire outlook of the peg-box. Coloring Since my aim is to install the peg-box outside the house, I have to make sure that I apply multiple coats of paint on the box to avoid the pallet wood from rotting. I applied 3 coats of paint on the entire setup and insulated all the holes that I found using wood putty. So, this is how it looks like. The electronics bit will stay hidden under the roof of the box. Ha ha, Don't worry, I will obviously insulate them and make them weather-proof before installing them on the wall. Installation Now the next thing you need to do is to find a spot where you want to install this unit. I am installing this near my clothesline, however you may want to install it in your pantry or behind a door or something like that. It totally depends on how much space you have and where you want to install it. I am using metal frame hangers to hang this on the wall. Place the unit against the wall, and using a pencil mark the points where you want to drilling the holes. Now, using a hammer drill, drill the holes in the wall. Then, put the wall plugs in the wall and then use a screw driver to install the screws. Alright so, that's it. This unit is now all set to hold all my pegs in it. Demo So, this how my final setup looks like. Do comment and let me know if there are any scopes of improvement. Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Blog Posts: 1. Peg Box 2. DHT11 & DHT22 3. OLED Tutorial Video references: 1. Peg Box 2. DHT11 & DHT22 3. OLED Tutorial Resources: Gerber Schema 3D Model Code: Code (Arduino + PHP + MySQL DB) Code_With_OLED_Arduino Code_With_OLED_NodeMCU Code_With_PHP_NodeMCU Libraries: DHTStable.h SSD1306.h Adafruit display library Adafruit GFX library Support My Work: BTC: 1M1PdxVxSTPLoMK91XnvEPksVuAa4J4dDp LTC: MQFkVkWimYngMwp5SMuSbMP4ADStjysstm DOGE: DDe7Fws24zf7acZevoT8uERnmisiHwR5st ETH: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60 BAT: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial.

Had some spare time this weekend and a bit of wish to impress my partner. So went ahead and created these pallet photo frames to flash some of my magic on her.. Items required One of my mate gave me these pallet planks from their broken bed, which I am going to use in making the photo frames. Other than that, for this project we need: Pallet Wood Protective equipment like: Face mask : Amazon Glasses : Amazon Gloves : Amazon Sanding Tool : Amazon Hammer : Amazon Measuring Tape : Amazon Nails Handsaw or Chop-saw : Amazon Knife : Amazon Pliers : Amazon Pencil : Amazon and Paint of your choice : Amazon VELCRO Removable Picture Hangers : Amazon Wood Cutting Since the pallet planks are very well sanded and polished, I did not had to waste my time in sanding an polishing them. I wanted to keep the size of my frames pretty standard so I cut them into 14"x19" blocks. Using a chop-saw I cut 45degree angels on both sides of the plank. Joining The Blocks Using wood-glue, I am joined all the pieces that I extracted from the pallet planks in the previous step. I added a bit of masking tape to hold the pieces together until they completely dry up. Coloring On my way back from work, I found these amazing pieces of art lying along the roadside. Things like these, really fascinate me. I painted one of them black and another one brown. Then, using hot-glue I attached them to the base pallet plank. I also glued an artificial flower pot, which I bought from a nearby local shop for $5. Putting Up On The Wall To hang the frame, I am going to use "VELCRO Removable Picture Hangers". By using these, I don't have to drill any hole in the wall, and if the setup doesn't look good here, I can just pull it out and paste it somewhere else in the house. So, this how my final setup looks like. Do comment and let me know if there is any scope of improvement. Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Blog Posts: https://diy-projects4u.blogspot.com/2022/01/diy-wooden-photo-frame.html Video: https://youtu.be/7dygDmDOhgY Chop-saw : Amazon VELCRO Removable Picture Hangers : Amazon Support My Work: BTC: 1M1PdxVxSTPLoMK91XnvEPksVuAa4J4dDp LTC: LedWPdTaUzr5iaJx8garkcykSs1DZU1FAx DOGE: DQoaLEn7aWpcwt8ZpyWfiBXzw7XM6Ksv2x ETH: 0xB62a901Ee6cE24f3153CA6ae565C2A6533066faA BAT: 0xB62a901Ee6cE24f3153CA6ae565C2A6533066faA LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial.

Christmas is just around the corner and I wanted to create some of my own Christmas Decorations. Well naturally, I am not going to spend on something that I can make myself with things from my scrap wood bin. So, before crack opening a cold one with the boys, I planned to create some pallet stars, pallet houses and a pallet Christmas Tree. Hardware Requirement Dismantling The Pallet Using 2 hammers I am dismantling the pallet. My aim is to reuse all the nails used in building this pallet so that, I can use them in building my project. Sanding Lets start the project by sanding the pallet planks to give them a nice and smooth texture. Building The Houses Since I am using an electric saw and will be placing me hands and fingers close to the blade, I have to pay extra attention and practice safety as much as possible. To create the pallet houses, I am using the thick pallet woods that is generally used to separate the bottom and top section of the pallet. To create the roof, I am cutting 45º angles from each side of the pallet. To get that 45º angle I have to draw a square and then cut along the diagonals of the square. Since the width of my pallet is 8cm, I am creating a square of 8cm side each and then joining the diagonals. Next, by cutting along the diagonals of the square I am able to extract two houses and two triangles of 45º angle each. As I don't like wasting any wood; so, I went ahead and cut two blocks of pallet and glued the leftover triangles on top of them. Once the setup dried up, I will sanded the edges and made it look like a single piece of wood. That's it, as simple as that. Building The Stars To build the Stars, I am using pallet-wood, however you can use any type of wood of your choice. Each star has 5 long sides 7.1″ long and 5 short sides which are 6″ long. Each of these 10 pieces will have one side cut to 36º angel and the other one to 54º angle. Cutting a 36º angle is easy. Turn the saw's blade to 36º and then place the piece of plank standing straight and then just lower the blade, easy as. However, since miter saw only goes to 45º, cutting a 54º angle is not that easy. I had to create a jig of 30º one side and 45º the other side. Now, lets do the math, 45 + 9 = 54º. So, to cut the 54º angle, I need to set my miter saw to 9º angle and then place the pallet plank next to the 45º side of the jig and then drop the saw. Boom, nailed it. Now to create the star, we need to glue the 36º angle of the long side to the 36º angle of the short side as shown in the video. Once the sides dry up, join the 54º angles exactly the way I have shown in the video. Building The Christmas Tree Alright, now lets create the Christmas Tree. I could have done 3 separate videos but, naah..., anyways... Cool, so lets get the top section sorted first. Cut a 5.5" and a 6.5" pallet plank with one side cut to 30º angle on each plank. Then let cut 4 x 7" planks for the sides. The bottom ones will also need to be cut at 30º angle each. The base is 14.5" long. For this setup, I have cut 2 x 4" planks for the trunk and one 5.5" plank for the base of the trunk. That's it, now its just a matter of gluing all the planks together. Stay blessed and have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.. Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Blog Posts: https://diy-projects4u.blogspot.com/2021/12/christmas-is-just-around-corner-and-i.html Video: https://youtu.be/JJ8Jc599ugw Support My Work: BTC: 1M1PdxVxSTPLoMK91XnvEPksVuAa4J4dDp LTC: MQFkVkWimYngMwp5SMuSbMP4ADStjysstm DOGE: DDe7Fws24zf7acZevoT8uERnmisiHwR5st ETH: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60 BAT: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial.

Created some Halloween Jacko Lanterns using repurposed pallet wood. A family of 4 is really fun to have! Happy Halloween :) Hardware Requirement For this project we need: Pallet Wood Protective equipment like: Face mask Glasses Gloves Sanding Tool Hammer Measuring Tape Nails Handsaw or Chop-saw Knife Pliers Pencil and Paint of your choice Dismantling The Pallet Using 2 hammers I am dismantling the pallet. My aim is to reuse all the nails used in building this pallet so that, I can use them in building my project. Sanding Lets start the project by sanding the pallet planks to give them a nice and smooth texture. Wood Cutting Then using either a chop-saw or a hand-saw I am cutting all the pallet planks that I need for this project. It totally depends on you, how tall you want your Lanterns to be, so I am not providing any measurements here. Assembly Once all the sides were ready, its was time for me to join them all together. Using wood glue I am join all the sides. My clamps are way too small, so I am using a paver to apply the pressure. So this is how it looks like. Coloring I applied orange color to the body of the lantern and black color to the stems of the lantern. Now, its time for me to paint the scary faces on the lanterns, let me use my imagination and make them as scary as I can. Boom, So this is how the final setup looks like. Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Blog Posts: https://diy-projects4u.blogspot.com/2021/10/created-some-halloween-jacko-lanterns.html Video: https://youtu.be/wvDsKmXJ_Zk Support My Work: BTC: 1M1PdxVxSTPLoMK91XnvEPksVuAa4J4dDp LTC: MQFkVkWimYngMwp5SMuSbMP4ADStjysstm DOGE: DDe7Fws24zf7acZevoT8uERnmisiHwR5st ETH: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60 BAT: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial.

Whether you prefer to unwind the evening with a good book, play games on your phone, or wanna have some cozy time with your partner, the right bedside lighting can make a lot of difference. In this project, I am going to make a touchless multipurpose bedside lamp, which will also include a digital clock, two power-ports and a USB charger. Woodwork Lets start the project by sanding a pallet planks to give it a nice and smooth texture. Then, lets drill 3 holes for the top and the 2 sides of the night lamp. After drilling the holes lets extract the sides from the plank using a chop-saw or a hand-saw. My pallet plank is 9.5cm wide and the lamp will be square in shape. So, rest of the measurements are based on that. Assembly Once all the sides were ready its was time for me to join them all together. First of all I am getting the 2 x sides ready by gluing the power sockets into the holes. Next, I drilled 2x more holes for the IR sensor. If you want to know more about IR sensors please check out my "Tutorial No 21 : DIY - IR Module : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_M8FQIPi1qk" Next, one by one using wood glue I am joining the 2 x sides to the top of the lamp. At first I thought of using nails to join the sides, but soon I realized that by all means it was a very bad idea. Before gluing the 2nd side I connected the two power ports together using a copper wire. Alright now, Lets look at the electronics bit. Electronics For the electronics bit we need: 1 x IR Sensor 5 x Colored LEDs 5 x 220Ω Resistors 1 x 10uf Capacitor 5 x 2N2222 NPN Transistor 1 x 4017 IC 4017 is a Decade Counter IC, it can count from 0 to 10. When a clock signal is received on Pin-14 the output turns to high one by one in a sequence. The signal from the IR-Sensor clocks the 4017 decade counter. Whenever a pulse is received at the clock input of IC, the counter increments the count and activates the corresponding output PIN. In our project we only need to count upto 5 so the 6th output from Pin-5 will be given to the Reset Pin-15. Sending a high signal to Pin-15 will reset the counter and it will skip counting the rest of the numbers and will start from the beginning. A capacitor is added to filter out too frequent detection of object by the IR sensor. To add a cluster of LEDs to the circuit, we just need to feed the output from the IC to a transistor and the cluster can then be connect to the transistor. Similar to this setup. Top - Soldering Components So, now lets start putting the components together. Lets solder the IC base followed by the 5 x NPN Transistors. Then, lets solder the 220Ω Resistors and the 10uf Capacitor to the board. I also added few pin headers to the board, 3 for the IR Sensor and 2 for the 5v power supply. The transistors are connected to the ribbon of wire which then connects to the cluster of LEDs that will slide under the top section. Before putting the circuit into production lets do a quick test. Bang, nailed it.. Front - Clock For the front bit I am using a 4-Bits DIY Electronic Digital Clock which I bought from AliExpress for just AU$2.40. If you want to know more about this clock please checkout my "Tutorial No 12 : DIY - Wooden Clock : https://youtu.be/Av0riH_ncsE " I moved the 2 push button switches from the board to the front panel of this lamp. My initial plan was to cover this entire setup with timber veneer sheet. However, I could not find one that was thin enough to not completely hide the 7-segment display. So, I ended up putting a black plastic film over the 7-segment display. Back - USB Port The back bit will host the USB ports and will also have a hole for the AC power chord. Lets have a look at this USB port. When I am holding a USB port upside down the left most pin is the -ve pin and the rightmost is the +ve pin. The middle two are the data pins which I am not going to use in this project. I used a Rubber Grommet to safeguard the power chord's hole. To power the electronics bit I am using a USB charger. I glued the USB charger to the back bit of the lamp. I soldered the power supply cable to the USB charger and then hot-glued to protect it from touching the other electrical and electronic components. Then I glued the back and the front plates of the lamp to the wooden frame. I soldered all the electronics components to the USB charger. Bottom - Power Supply The bottom bit will hold the AC Power Cables. Since I don't want the AC cables to float around and cause short circuits inside the lamp, I screwed them to the base of the lamp. Painting I painted the lamp a little bit to give it a modern look. Next, I superglued the black plastic film and painted its edges to match the whole setup. To finalize the setup, I added a bit of hot-glue to the bottom of the lamp. These glue drops will stop this lamp from scratching my bedside table top. Demo Covid has taught us many things, it has changed our life. This project was an attempt to make things touchless. Hope you guys enjoyed it. Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Full Blog Post: https://diyfactory007.blogspot.com/2021/05/touchless-multifunctional-bedside-lamp.html Video: https://youtu.be/r1r9jIgtcEk Links: Tutorial No 21 : DIY - IR Module :: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_M8FQIPi1qk Tutorial No 12 : DIY - Wooden Clock :: https://youtu.be/Av0riH_ncsE Support Me: BTC: 1M1PdxVxSTPLoMK91XnvEPksVuAa4J4dDp LTC: MQFkVkWimYngMwp5SMuSbMP4ADStjysstm DOGE: DDe7Fws24zf7acZevoT8uERnmisiHwR5st ETH: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60 BAT: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial.

This lockdown, gave me an once in a lifetime opportunity to convert some of my pallets to amazing DIY projects. We all are doing our best to keep a positive attitude while in this lockdown situation and hope that by staying at home we can help others. Our thoughts and prayers are continually with all those who are suffering. Please stay safe and stay well, and most preferably stay at home! Hardware Requirement ------------------------------- For this project we need: Pallet Wood Measuring Tape Hand Saw or Chop Saw Knife Hammer Pencil Nails Artificial Turf & Artificial Decorative Plants which I bought from AliExpress for a Dollar each. Protective equipment like: Face mask Glasses Gloves Sanding ------------ Lets start the project by sanding the plank to give it a nice and smooth texture. Wood Cutting ------------------- After that, I am cutting two 17cm and two 10cm blocks from the plank. Frankly speaking, you can chose any size based on how much space you have and how many plant you want to put into the box. Assembly ------------- Once all the blocks are ready, its just a matter of putting them all together with medium sized nails. For the backplate, I am using a cardboard extracted from a broken chest's drawer. I have previously used it in another project, I will provide the link in the description below. I am using thermocol to fill in the extra space inside the box. Thermocol will keep the setup light and tidy. Then, I am adding the artificial turf on the top of the thermocol block. Now to wrap it all up, I am adding the artificial plants on top of the turf. That's it all done. Painting ----------- I initially had no plans of painting the box, however based on my partners advise I went ahead and painted the box to give it a modern look. Thanks ---------- This is another beautiful creation of the wooden pallet that is recycled into an excellent piece of work. Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 BTC: 35ciN1Z49Y1bReX2U7Etd9hGPWzzzk8TzF LTC: MQFkVkWimYngMwp5SMuSbMP4ADStjysstm ETH: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60 DOGE: DDe7Fws24zf7acZevoT8uERnmisiHwR5st TRX: TQJRvEfKc7NibQsuA9nuJhh9irV1CyRmnW BAT: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60 BCH: qrfevmdvmwufpdvh0vpx072z35et2eyefv3fa9fc3z Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial.

A pendulum clock is a clock that uses a pendulum, a swinging weight, as its timekeeping element. The advantage of a pendulum for timekeeping is that it is a harmonic oscillator: it swings back and forth in a precise time interval dependent on its length, and resists swinging at other rates. From its invention in 1656 by Christiaan Huygens until the 1930s, the pendulum clock was the world's most precise timekeeper, accounting for its widespread use. Hardware Requirement --------------------------------- Protective equipment like: Face mask Glasses Gloves For this project we need: Pallet Wood Sanding Tool Hammer Measuring Tape Nails Handsaw or Chop-saw Knife Pliers Pencil and Paint of your choice Electronic Components --------------------------------- For the electronics bit we need: 1 x Arduino Nano 1 x Servo Motor  1 x 18650 Battery or a 5v DC Buck Step-Down Module 1 x Battery Protection Board 1 x SPDT Switch 1 x Generic PCB Connecting Cables and General Soldering Equipments Wood Working --------------------- Lets start the project by sanding the planks to give them a nice and smooth texture. Next using a chop-saw, I am cutting the two sides, bottom and the top sections of the clock.  Once all the sides are ready its time for me to join them all together. At first I just used nails but soon I realized that it was not a good idea to have just nails to hold the sides. So, I went ahead and added screws to give the sides an additional support. Using an edge decorative stick I am preparing the roof of the clock. And using some of the leftover wooden blocks from my last project, I am preparing the base of the clock. To fill in the gaps, I am adding a bit of PoP to the groves. However, as we all know two dis-similar materials like wood and plaster expand and contract at different rates. For any sort of permanence you need to isolate the movement of each relative to the other. This problem is commonly encountered when you paint the siding on a house. However, this clock is not going to move a lot and will not be placed outside the house so adding a bit of PoP would not really matter as long as I seal it properly. Preparing the Dial -------------------------- I am preparing the dial of the clock using a board extracted from a broken chest's drawer. My plan is to have a dark colored dial and a light colored housing for it. So, I am painting the dial black. Now, for the numbering bit I am using a printed sheet as a stencil to transfer the numbers from the sheet over to the circular board.  Once all the numbers are transferred I am painting the graphite impressions with white color. After giving the finishing touch, I am drilling a hole in the center of the circle and placing a $2 watch circuitry which I bought from Aliexpress. Designing the Pendulum ----------------------------------- Now, from the same compress wood board I am extracting another circle which will be used for the pendulum of the clock. Circuit Diagram ---------------------- This is how I have created the pendulums circuit. Connect the servo to any one of the digital pins of the Arduino. Then connect the -ve to GND and +ve to the 5V output of Arduino. Finally connect the -ve wire of the battery to GND and +ve to the VIN pin of Arduino placing the switch in the middle of the circuit. This circuit diagram is for the pendulum only. The Code -------------- The code is very simple. Start by including the "Servo.h" library.  Then declare the servo pin. And then, create a object of the Servo class. In the "setup()" section attach the servo to the Arduino's pin. And, finally in the "loop()" section we just need to move the servo left and right. Components Assembly --------------------------------- I will start by soldering the Arduino to the circuit plate.  Then, I am connecting the Servo to the digital Pin D2 and the -ve to GND and +ve to the 5V output of Arduino. After that, I am connecting all the cables to the BMC and finally soldering it to the main circuit board. Battery Installation --------------------------- Now that we have the circuit ready, its time to hot-glue the Battery to the back of the clock.  Then, solder the circuit to the battery. Instead of using the battery you can connect a step down converter here.  A Quick note: AVR are made for low power applications, as low as 0.7v . The nanos at <5v will work a little slower, analog pins will be glitchy and the 5v and 3v3 regulators will provide a lower voltage. Painting ------------ Next I am painting the body of the clock. I chose off-white color for the body of my clock as my dial is black in color. Preparing The Backplate -------------------------------------- I created the back-plate from the remaining cardboard bit and screwed it to the back of the clock. Installing the Pendulum and Clock Face ------------------------------------------------------------- Thats it, almost done.  To conclude the tutorial I am hot-gluing the pendulum to the servo motor and then sliding the clock face to hide the circuitry behind it. While testing my pendulum I figured out that I need to decrees the angle as the pendulum was hitting the walls of the clock. Thats it, all done.. Thanks ---------- This is another beautiful creation of the wooden pallet that is recycled into an excellent piece of work.  Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. Stay home and stay safe. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel (https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3) BTC: 35ciN1Z49Y1bReX2U7Etd9hGPWzzzk8TzF DOGE: DDe7Fws24zf7acZevoT8uERnmisiHwR5st LTC: MQFkVkWimYngMwp5SMuSbMP4ADStjysstm ETH: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60 TRX: TQJRvEfKc7NibQsuA9nuJhh9irV1CyRmnW BAT: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60 BCH: qrfevmdvmwufpdvh0vpx072z35et2eyefv3fa9fc3z

Introduction ----------------- Christmas is just around the corner and my front-yard was looking like a small JUNGLE. So, before crack opening a cold one with the boys I planned to fix my front-yard. Hardware Requirement --------------------------------- For this project we need: Pallet Wood Protective equipment like: Face mask Glasses Gloves Sanding Tool Hammer Measuring Tape Nails Handsaw or Chop-saw Knife Pliers Pencil and Paint of your choice Dismantling The Pallet -------------------------------- Using 2 hammers I am going to dismantle the pallet. My aim is to reuse all the nails that are used in building this pallet. Redwood and Cedar are in general the best option to building a raised garden box in terms of longevity because they are naturally rot-resistant and have been known to last for up to 20 years and they looks gorgeous. Measurement ------------------- Lets start by measuring the length, width and the height of the area where I am going to place the planter box. 3D Model -------------- Based on the measurements, I am going to assemble the two small sides first.  After that, I am going to put together the two long sides and join them all together.  Once all the sides are ready, I will paint the parallel planks gray, and the legs with black paint.  After that, I am going to add the potting mix to the planter box and plant the agave plants to the box. Well, enough of talking, now lets get started.  Sanding ------------ Lets start the project by sanding the planks to give them a nice and smooth texture. Wood Cutting ------------------- After that, with my magical super fast hands, I am going to cut all the wooden blocks and keep them aside. Building The Box ------------------------ Sides As per the plan, I am assembling the two identical small sides first. The two legs which I am going to put on the sides are going to firmly hold the 3 inner planks together. Front Next, I am assembling the two longer sides.  This planter box is not going to move from its position. So, there is no point of adding any planks to the bottom of the box. Joining The Sides Once all the sides are ready I am joining them all together. For a bit of extra support I am adding a metal bracket to hold the sides. Painting ----------- Alright, that's all with the nails and the hammers.  In the next section, I am going to paint the exterior of the box as per the plan. My partner came up with an idea of drawing borders between the wooden planks and frankly speaking, with a bit of an extra effort the box now looks even more appealing. Lining The Box ---------------------- Before pouring the soil into the box I am adding a liner to help maintain and prolong the life of the container. Frankly speaking, the lining can be something as simplistic as a black trash bag. These bags are an easy and cheap alternative to the ground liners.  If the bag is too big or has a lot of extra length for your wooden planter, you can cut away the extra length with scissors. Place the bag in the planter to check how much of the bag you need to eliminate. Adding Potting Mix --------------------------- The pallet planter is almost ready. All I have to do now is to fill the planter box with soil. Remember, do not overfill it and make sure to keep the soil at least a couple of inches below the lining level. Planting Agave ---------------------- And now to evenly plant the Agave plants I am placing few sticks to find the right spots. And, that's it, to wrap it all up I am one by one removing the sticks and planting the Agave plants in the box. Thanks ---------- This is another beautiful creation of the wooden pallet that is recycled into an excellent piece of work.  So, let's ring the boys and crack open some cold ones. Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel (https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3) Full Blog Post: https://diy-projects4u.blogspot.com/2019/12/diy-planter-box.html Video: https://youtu.be/B67lplkALvo Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial.

Introduction ---------------- I had some spare time this weekend and was bored of babysitting. So, I went ahead and made something interesting to kill my time and use some of the scrap wood I have been collecting for ages. Hardware Requirement --------------------------------- For this project we need: Pallet Wood Protective equipment like: Face mask Glasses Gloves Sanding Tool Hammer Measuring Tape Nails Handsaw or Chop-saw Knife Pliers Pencil and Paint of your choice Dismantling The Pallet -------------------------------- Using 2 hammers I am going to dismantle the pallet. My aim is to reuse all the nails used in building this pallet so that, I can use them in building my stool. A stool is a highly useful piece of furniture that comes in handy at any point of time, such as to sit, and to reach out places that you can't reach without some additional support. There are so many styles, shapes, and types of stools available online, but the real fun is to make one yourself, using your own time and creativity. Many people choose them to add a bit of charm to their home interior and exterior decoration. Wood Cutting -------------------- Let's start by cutting the wooden pieces required for this project. My pallets are 9cm wide and 2cm thick. So, if I want to make a perfect square I would need: 12 x 36cm blocks for 2 opposite sides and the top8  x 32cm blocks for the other 2 sides4  x 38cm blocks for the legs, which will also hold the sidesFor the base we need: 2  x 32cm blocks for the center bit and2  x 28cm blocks for the sides bitsAnd finally, few random sized blocks to hold the sides. Just keep watching and you will know what I mean. Sanding ------------ Before putting the blocks together I am going to sand them to give them a nice and smooth texture. Putting The Pieces Together ---------------------------------------- Let's start by putting the 2 identical sides together. For that, I am going to use the 4 x 32cm blocks and the 2 x 38cm legs. Once the sides are ready I will use the 8 x 36cm blocks to join these sides to each other to give it a square shape. But, before joining the 4th side I am putting the bottom bit together. Cool, so that's how the box looks like without the top lid. Now, lets put the lid together and place it over the box. Awesome, look at that. To fill the holes, I am mixing sawdust with a bit of wood glue and then filling the holes up with the mixture. I will sand it once the glue drys up to give it a smooth finish. Painting ------------ Black is my favorite color. So, I am going to paint this stool with water-based black paint. Now, to draw the circles I am using the lid of the 'Pringles' potato chips paperboard can. The Legs ------------- As this stool will be used inside the house, I don't want the wooden legs to scratch the tiles of my floor. So to avoid that, I am putting some hot glue under the legs. You can also use a rubber base for this.  Thanks ---------- This is another beautiful creation of the wooden pallet that is recycled into an excellent piece work. This is a versatile piece of furniture which can be placed in the living room, bedroom, study, kitchen or/and even outdoors. This stool is lightweight yet sturdy, comfortable to sit on, and is highly functional as it can be moved around the house, giving a dynamic and entertaining experience. Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel (https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3). Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial. Video: https://youtu.be/04fBgMkY1Dw

Had some spare time this weekend so went ahead and assembled this AU$2.40 4-Bits DIY Electronic Digital Clock which I bought from AliExpress a while ago. Step 1: Unboxing I bought this DIY kit from "HESAI 3C Electronic Components Store" from AliExpress for just AU$2.40. I have provided the store's link in the description below. The packaging was good and the item was delivered to me in just 15 days.The item came with a circuit diagram and a list of components included in the packaging. Including the instruction sheet there are 18 items in this packet. You can find a scanned copy of the circuit diagram in the description below.Frankly speaking, by looking at the components it doest look like you really need to be an electronic genius to assemble all these components. I guess all you need is just a general purpose soldering kit and a bit of your spare time. Step 2: Soldering The board is actually drawn out with all the shapes of the components on it, so even if you don't know what the components are its really easy to find the right place for it. I am going to install the components from top to bottom so that I have easy access to all of them while soldering.Lets first solder the 1K PR1 resistor pack to the board. One end of the resistor pack has a white dot on it. The white dotted side sits on the square facing the left side of the clock. After that, I am soldering the 8550 PNP transistor to the board. Just match the 'D' of the transistor to the 'D' drawn on the board and you will never get it wrong. Next, I am soldering the 10μF capacitor. The +ve terminal or the long leg of the capacitor slides into the hole that has a plus next to it. It actually doesn't matter what order you are solder the components on the board. The reason I am soldering them from top to bottom is to have easy access to the components when I am putting them on the board.After soldering the base of the IC I am soldering the 2 x 10K resistors and the 3 ceramic capacitors to the board. Next, I am soldering the 12MHz oscillator crystal and the buzzer to the board. The positive leg of the buzzer slides into the hole which has a plus mark on it. After that, I am soldering the 2 x push buttons and the screw terminal block. I really don't like the concept of having the buttons in the front so, I will later move them to the back of the unit. The supply voltage can be between 3v to 6v. This clock also comes with 2 different alarm settings. You can either set them up or turn them off if you don't need them. This clock only displays in the 24hr clock format. I don't know about you but I really like the 24hrs format so its actually a good thing for me.OK, now the final bit, lets solder the 4-Bit 7-segment display and install the AT89C2051 IC to the socket. Make sure when you solder the 7-Segment the dot on the bottom right corner matches the dot on the board. These displays consume a hell lot of current so, before creating the enclosure I will do a bit of maths to estimate how long the clock will last on a fully charged battery. Step 3: Testing Once everything is soldered its time for us to do a quick test. Looks like everything is working the way they should, so lets now do the math and find out how many hours this clock will last without recharging the battery.. Step 4: Current Calculation To calculate the current we need to setup our multimeter to current calculation mode. Then connect the multimeter in series with the clock to the battery. The 18650 battery I have holds 1500mAh current and by looking at the multimeter it looks like the clock consumes almost 25mAh current. So, if we divide 1500 by 25 we get 60hrs which is like 2.5 days. 1500mA / 25mA = 60hrs 60hrs / 24 = 2.5 days Step 5: Reset Button I have noticed that when you recharge the battery after it goes completely flat the clock displays all sorts of funny things except for the time on the display. So, adding a reset button to this clock wood be a good idea. Went back to the clock's manual and looked into the circuit diagram. Looking at the circuit you can see that Pin 1 of the IC is the Reset pin. Digging a bit further, you can easily figure out that to reset the IC you just need to set the pin to HIGH. So thats it, bingo. Lets do a quick test and see if I have hit the jackpot or not. Oh yes, that bloody works. Cool, now lets go ahead and create the wooden enclosure for this clock. Step 6: Woodworking While cleaning my store room I looked at the pile of scrap wood I have in there. I was shocked to see the amount of crap I have collected overtime. Its like, my scrap pile explodes every time I build a new project! Bigger the project, the bigger the pile of scrap wood! So, I used a bit of it to create a nice looking enclosure for this clock.I also added few upgraded to this small project which I am going to show you in the video. Step 7: Installing the Push Buttons As discussed earlier I am moving the pushbuttons from the front to the back of the unit. I am also adding a reset button along with the other two buttons to the back panel. I choose plywood to create the back panel as it has less thickness than a pallet-wood.Using the thinnest drill bit I am drilling all the holes required for the 3 pushbuttons. After that I am soldering a 6 way ribbon cable to the pushbuttons. It was actually a bit of a challenge to solder the ribbon to the buttons, so to hold the cable tight I am adding a bit of hot glue to it. Step 8: Installing the TP4056 Charging Module Next, I am going to install the TP4056 battery charging module with the protection IC to the unit. The protection IC protect the 18650 battery from overcharging and over-discharging. If you want to know more about this module please check out my tutorial number 2 "DIY - Solar Battery Charger". After drilling the right size hole in the back-plate I am going to hot-glue the module into it. Step 9: Installing the Wireless Charger Ha ha, I became a bit lazy and instead of using nails or screws to stick the back plate, I just hot-glued it to the back of the unit.After that I plugged in this 'wireless charging receiver' to the TP4056 charging module which I also bought from AliExpress for $3. If you don't want to use a wireless charger you can either use a step-down converter or micro-USB charger. Step 10: Connecting the Pushbuttons Once the backplate is in place I am soldering the push buttons to the clock. The reset button connects to the +ve and pin number 1 of the MCU. The other two pushbuttons will just replace the ones in the front. Step 11: Connecting the Charging Module and Battery Now lets connect the battery and the charging module to the clock.Connect the OUT+ and OUT- of the TP4056 module to the +ve and -ve input ports of the clock. Next I am installing the 3.7v 18650 battery using hot-glue inside the wooden enclosure. Once fitted I am connecting the B+ and B- ports of the TP4056 module to the +ve and -ve ends of the battery. Thats it, we are almost done. Step 12: Installing the Faceplate To finish up the project I am going to stick the 7-segment display to the faceplate and then hot-glue it to the front side of the wooden enclosure. Step 13: Setting Up the Clock Programming is done using the two pushbuttons S1 and S2. In my project, I am calling the B1 and B2. This clock is really very nice and accurate. Great for all the DIY lovers and for those who like electronics. I really enjoyed building it. In the night I charge my phone with the wireless charger and in the daytime the clock sits over it. Wireless charging gives this clock 100% mobility. I can take it with me to the shower, when I am having food or even when we go out for picnic.Few things you guys can add to this project: * A transparent sheet for the faceplate so that only the lit up digits are visible * Remove the charging indicators from the TP4056 module and add two LEDs at the back to know when charging is happening and when the unit is fully charged. * LDR to dim the 7-Segment at night Links The watch/clock is available here: Store: HESAI 3C Electronic components Store Website:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-C51-... Cost: AU$2.32 / piece

If you are an enthusiast or a woodworker, you are probably in search of simple scrap wood projects all the time!I don't know about you, but I have tons of scrap wood and this little project was a great way to use some of it! In this project I am going to make a simple wooden lantern for our living room. Step 1: Hardware Requirement For this project we need: Pallet Wood Protective equipment like gloves Face mask Glasses Handsaw or Chop-saw Hammer Pliers Pencil Measuring Tape Sanding Tool Nails and Paint of your choice Step 2: Dismantling Pallet Using 2 hammers I am dismantling the pallet and saving all the nails that are used in building this pallet.The word "lantern" comes via French from Latin "lanterna", possibly itself derived from Greek. Todays, English-speaking world use the term lantern to describe many types of portable lighting, but lanterns originated as a protective enclosure for a light source—usually a candle or a wick in oil—to make it easier to carry and hang up, and more reliable for outdoors or in drafty interiors. Step 3: Wood Cutting Lets start by cutting all the wooden pieces required for this project. In total I need: 4 x 50cm uprights 6 x 28cm blocks for the base & top 4 x 20cm side blocks, 2 for the top and 2 for the bottom 4 x 24cm side blocks again 2 for the top and 2 for the bottom. As we start putting all the pieces together I will explain why we need 4 x 20cm and 4 x 24cm side-block and not all of the same width. Step 4: Assembling First of all, I am going to join the 4 uprights, 2 at a time using the 2 x 20cm blocks. Then using the 4 x 24cm blocks I will join them all together. The pallets have 2cm thickness so I am keeping the extra 4cm to cover the sides. Once the frame is ready its time for us to assemble the top and the bottom of the unit. Though lantern are primarily used to prevent a burning candle or wick being extinguished from wind, rain or other causes, another important function is to reduce the risk of fire; Should a spark leap from the flame or the light be dropped. In the past, this was especially important below the deck of a ship: a fire on a wooden ship was a major catastrophe. Now, this is how it looks like.This top cover will sit on the top of this unit to give this project nicer look. Step 6: Sanding and Painting Wallah, just before applying the stain or paint I am going to sand this unit to give it a nice and smooth finish. Once sanded, its time for us to apply the paint on it. This is another beautiful creation of the wood pallet that is recycled into an excellent piece work. It is bringing out an outstanding impression in your living room that looks so royal. To give your living room a catchier effect for others, do make it as part of your house now. Thanks again for checking out my tutorial. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel (https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3) for more updates. Thanks ca again in my next tutorial.

Do you get nightmares of losing your YouTube Subscribers? If you do, you are not the only one.Luckily I have made this "YouTube Desktop Notifier" to keep me up-to-date with my channels Subscriber and View Counts. This very simple DIY project cost me around $10 and it now keeps me in track with my channel. Other than displaying the Subscriber and View count this device also "Beeps and Glows" when my channel gains a new subscriber. Step 1: Hardware Requirement - 1 Step 2: Hardware Requirement - 2 Step 3: Topic Covered Step 4: The Plan The plan is to make a 24cm x 10cm box to hold the circuitry in it. When the device is powered on, it will first connect to the specified Wi-Fi network using the SSID and password pair provided in the code. Once a connection is made the code uses a combination of the "Google API key" (I will show you how to generate it in the later section) and your "YouTube Channels’ ID" to fetch the data from the YouTube server. The device then displays the view and subscribers count using the 7segment display. After displaying the information it waits for 5 minutes before fetching the next set of information from the YouTube server. A variable is used to store the current subscriber count. If the new subscriber count is greater than the old count the buzzer goes on and the blue and white LEDs flash (glows) alternatively. Step 5: Wiring The wiring is very simple. We will start by connecting the 7-Segment displays to the microcontroller. Each of these displays have 4 pins, 2 for power and one for clock and the other one for data. Connect the data and clock pins to NodeMCU as per the instruction provided on screen. Then we will connect all the VCC pins of the displays to the 3.3V pin of NodeMCU. Next, connect the buzzer shield/buzzer with the 100Ω Resistor to the D8 pin. After that connect the blue and white LEDs to D9 and D10 pins with a 220Ω current limiting resistor respectively. Now, go ahead and link up all the ground pins to the GND pin of NodeMCU. Once all the pins are connected, connect the switch to the VIN of NodeMCU and GND to GND of the stepdown converter. https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FRN/WMIR/JQQYN72Z/FRNWMIRJQQYN72Z.fzz Step 6: Libraries Used The channel's user and channel IDs are listed under "Account information"Sign in to your YouTube account.In the top right, click your account icon > Settings.From left hand panel click on "Advanced settings".Here is the list of libraries that we need for this project.> Software Libraries:TM1637 LED Driver: https://github.com/avishorp/TM1637ESP8266WiFi: https://github.com/esp8266/Arduino/tree/master/li...Arduino Json: https://github.com/bblanchon/ArduinoJsonArduino YouTube API: https://github.com/witnessmenow/arduino-youtube-a...You can download them all from GitHub, I have provided the links in the description below. Once downloaded unzip and rename the libraries by removing any special characters and the "master" from their names. Place the folder in your Arduino's libraries folder. You may need to create the Libraries folder if this is your very 1st library. Restart the IDE so that it properly loads the KEYWORD file, Examples, and adds the Library to the Library Menu.> Unique Identifiers:WiFi SSID/passwordYouTube channel ID: https://support.google.com/youtube/answer/3250431...Google API Key: https://cloud.google.com/docs/authentication/api-...Along with the libraries you also need few unique identifiers for this project.The first one is the SSID and password of your wireless network.Then, you need your YouTube Channel's unique channel ID. To get that:Sign in to your YouTube account.In the top right, click your account icon > Settings.From left hand panel click on "Advanced settings".The channel's user and channel IDs are listed under "Account information"And finally you need to generate the "Google API Key" for your channel. To generate the keyGoogle search "Using API Keys" or open the link provided in the description below.Scroll down and click on "APIs & Services→Credentials"If this is the very first time you are accessing this page then you will have to create a new project by clicking on the "Create" button.Accept the terms and give your project a name then hit "Create" button to create the projectOnce a project is created you just need to click on the "Create credentials" dropdown and select "API Key" from thereSystem will take its time to generate the key. Once generated, it will show you the key in a popup dialogue. - Copy and save it in your emailNow click on the "Library" option from the left hand panel and Scroll down and enable "YouTube Data API v3" and "YouTube Reporting API" by clicking on them and hitting the "Enable" button Wait for 5 to 10 minutes and then you should be able to use the API Key you just generated in your code. Step 7: Wood Working Let’s start our project by assembling the wooden box. As discussed earlier, I am going to cut:2 x 24x10cm, 2 x 10x6cm side panels and one 24x10cm back plate. After cutting all the wooden blocks I am going to join and sand them to give the box a nice and smooth look. At the back of the unit I am going to drill 2 holes, one of them would be for the power cord and the other one for the on and off switch. Step 8: Soldering Once the box is ready, I am going to solder all the electronics components and install them in the box.I will start by soldering the NodeMCU. Then, I will solder the 100Ω Resistor to the D8 pin of NodeMCU. After that I will solder the buzzer to a perfboard and will link it up to the NodeMCU. Next, I am going to solder the switch and install it at the back of the box. As per the schematic one pin of the switch will connect to the VIN of NodeMCU and the other one to the +ve terminal of the stepdown converter. The -ve end of the converter will connect to the GND pin of NodeMCU. Now, I am going to solder the 7-segments as per the schematic.Next, I am soldering the blue and white LEDs to the D9 and D10 pins of NodeMCU. So, this is how my faceplate looks like. Let me do a quick test before installing the faceplate. Looks like everything is working the way they should. OK, so let me install the faceplate and then I will explain the code to you guys. Step 9: The Code These are the list of the libraries that we need for this project. Now, if you are using the same schematic as mine you don’t have to modify anything in this code other than these few lines. You just need to add the SSID and Password of your WiFI network and the Google API Key and the channels ID here. Rest you can leave as is and load the code to the NodeMCU. The "api_mtbs" is the mean time between the API requests made by the microprocessor. Then, I am initializing the displays by setting the clock and the data pins. After that I am setting up the buzzer and the 2 LEDs. In the setup() section I am setting up the LED pin modes and turning the blue LED on at startup. Then I am clearing all the 7-Segments and displaying 0 on display 1 and 3. After that the device will connect to the WiFI network using the provided credentials. In the loop() section when the value of the counter exceeded the api_mtbs or in simple terms, when the time comes to make the next request to the YouTube server, a API call with the channel ID is made and the result is displayed on the serial monitor and on the 7-Segment displays. You need to calculate the MOD of the count received to display the last 4 digits and then subtract the MOD value from the original value to get the first 4 digits. One thing I have noticed is that if the MOD is lets say 24 then the display only displays 24 and not 0024. So we will have to add the missing zeros to the display. This bit of the code is to add the missing 0's. And finally, this bit of the code is to turn on the buzzer and the LEDs when the new subscriber count becomes greater than the old subscriber count. Note: Pin D9 and D10 are the RX and TX pins of the NodeMCU. So, if you connect the LEDs to these pins you will not be able to get anything on the serial monitor. So, during the testing process do not connect anything to the D9 and D10 pins and comment the bit that sets the pin modes for these pins. You can download the code from the link provided in the description below. https://www.instructables.com/files/orig/F36/T8DQ/JQWT1DT1/F36T8DQJQWT1DT1.zip Step 10: Future Enhancement Thanks

Tulsi or Tulasi (Ocimum tenuiflorum) or the Holy Basil is the “queen of herbs” and is a sacred plant in Hindu belief. The leaves of the Tulsi plant are important in worship. Hindus worship it in the morning and evening. The presence of Tulsi plant symbolizes the religious bent of a Hindu family. A Hindu household is considered incomplete if it doesn't have a Tulsi plant in the courtyard. Many families have the Tulsi planted in a specially built structure called "Tulsi Manch", which has images of deities installed on all four sides, and an alcove for a small earthen oil lamp. So, today I am going to spend few hours to make this "Tulsi Manch" from free pallet woods. Step 1: Hardware Requirement Step 2: Dismantling Pallet. Lets start by dismantling a pallet.I am going to use two hammers to dismantle the pallet and collect all the wood I need for this project. My aim is to reuse all the nails used in building this pallet. So, I am going to save them and keep them aside. Step 3: The Plan I am going to complete this project in 5 stages. In stage one, I am going to cut and assemble the 3 identical sides that will be used for the two sides and the back of the unit. Then I will assemble the front bit, which will have the alcove in it for the earthen oil lamp. Next, I will cut and assemble the top and the bottom section of the manch. After that, I will cut and attach the top wings to the top of the unit, and finally I will finish the project by polishing and painting the unit. Step 4: Wood Cutting Using the hand saw and with proper measurements in mind, I am going to cut all the wood that is required for building this project. Step 5: Assembling the Sides and Front After spending almost an hour, I have all the pieces ready in-front of me. So, lets first start by assembling the 3 identical sides.Once the sides are ready, I will put together the front bit which will have the alcove for the earthen oil lamp. Alright, so now we have all the 4 sides ready in-front of me its time to join them all together. Step 6: Assembling the Top and Bottom Now, its time for me to measure and cut the wooden planks required for creating the top and bottom sections of the unit. I am cutting the edges in a 45 degree angle to give the unit a nicer look. Step 7: Sanding After joining the top and the bottom section I am going to sand the unit to give it a smoother look. Painting becomes so easy when the wooden surface is properly sanded. Step 8: Assembling the Top Wings Now the final bit.Lets measure the top section properly to find out how many wings are required for the top bit. Once we have the proper measurement we just need to cut them out of the pallets and attach them to the unit. I will also be installing few blocks of wood around the alcove to give it a nicer look. Step 9: Painting Look at that, the project is almost complete. Now, its time for me to apply the wood-primer and leave it overnight to dry properly. You know what, I was so..so excited to complete this project, that I applied the brown paint early in the morning and forgot to record it. Anyways, now that I have the box completely painted, its time for me to show my artistic skills on it. I would sincerely like to thank my mom for teaching me drawing and painting when I was a young boy, because of you I am who I am today. To the world you might be just one person, but to me you are the world. Thank you for everything dad and mom. I have about 100 pallets laying around and have more time than money to bring my house to life! So, this project took me two days and a lot of my free time, but I hope you will enjoy the final product. Do let me know how you think its is by dropping a like and a comment below. Thanks

Hi There, I am here with a simple DIY project. This one, will only cost your time and energy to produce an amazing Planter Box from reclaimed pallet woods. Step 1: Dismantle Pallet First of all, I am going to dismantle this pallet using two hammers to collect all the wood I need for this project. Its been raining on an off all day so I will be setting up my workshop again inside the house. Step 2: Hardware Requirement For this project we need: Pallet Wood Hand Saw Hammer Pencil Measuring Scale Nails Measuring Tape Spray Paint of your choice Knife Other than that we need A Plastic Sheet Potting Mix and obviously the Plant Step 3: The Plan The plan is to cut 12 blocks of pallet wood 40cm each for the inner section. Then we will cut 8 blocks 21.5cm each to hold the inner blocks from top and bottom. Next we will cut 8 x 51.5cm blocks for the sides of the planter box. These sides will also serve the purpose of the legs of this box. Once ready all these sides will be joined together to give it the box shape. Then we will put 4 x 40cm blocks at the bottom of the box. For the top section I will cut 2 x 50cm and 2 x 46cms blocks. As my pallets width is 9cm so i will cut the edges of the top blocks by drawing a diagonal of a 9cm square box. Step 4: Wood Cutting Alright, so let's start by cutting the 12 blocks of the inner section. They don't have to be really fancy, as most of it will be staying inside the box. Now that we have the inner sections ready, its time for us to measure and cut the top and the bottom blocks that will be holding these inner blocks. Next, we are going to cut the 8 x 51.5cm blocks that will be holding the box from all the 4 sides. After spending few hours I finally have all the blocks ready. Now, its time to join them all together. Step 5: Joining Looks like our box is taking its shape. Step 6: Bottom Section Now, its time for us to cut and join the bottom section of this planter box. As the bottom planks will not be visible to the public, so I am going to use those pieces of the pallet wood which are either uneven or broke during the dismantling process. Step 7: Top Section Alright, now the final bit. At the edge of the pallet wood draw a 9cm square. Then draw a diagonal inside the square. The diagonal is going to be the angle which we will be using for the side. Step 8: Painting Now, its time to paint the box. Don't forget to wear a mask and a safety goggles while spraying the paint. Step 9: Installing the Plant Look at that, looks awesome, isnt it. Well, now its time to put a plastic sheet inside this box to prevent moisture and soil from damaging our hard work. Once the plastic sheet is properly installed pour the potting mix inside the box leaving a bit of room for the plant. Cool, so now lets install the plant inside the box and pour some manure into it. I am adding a bit more of the potting mix to fill the gaps. That's it, now we can water the plant and leave it in the sun for people to watch, like and comment on it. Step 10: Thanks Thanks again for reading this article. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me you can subscribe to my channel and watch my other videos. Thanks ca again in my next video, bye now..